Fresh off the press, just recently, all our social platforms were flooded with a rave for Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer 2024 collection. The French luxury house made headlines last week with newly appointed creative director, Pharell Williams’ maiden runway collection.
But what made it so coveted?
The recipe was perfect- It hit the bull’s eye with recalibrated design codes of the luxury fashion house, the event was star-studded, and the collection brought in a flair of Pharell’s own signature style merged with Louis Vuitton’s iconic design elements.
The question arises- Can just about anyone become the creative director of a luxury house in 2023?
Well, yes.
And no.
Pharell Williams’ onboarding as Louis Vuitton’s creative director was anything less than strategic. Over time, the role of creative directors in fashion houses has evolved and is not bound only to design but is meant to drive the brand culturally whilst creating a resonance between the traditional brand values with the modern shopper sentiment through their own established clout. Pull or influence of the creative director is hugely paramount in such cases as the title directly translates to being the public face of the brand on social platforms. Louis Vuitton’s spring-summer 2024 was well thought out with a high-powered guest list, each of whom came with their own creative prowess. From Rihanna to Zendaya, Lebron to Lewis Hamilton- it was a union of fashion with pop culture forces. And the aura of allegiance and celebration vibrated through and through. It’s one thing to unleash the new collection on the runway, but the frenzy reached an entirely new level of rhapsody when the likes of Rihanna & A$AP Rocky effortlessly flaunted the iconic pieces from the SS24 collection.
The newly appointed musician turned designer’s talent is undeniable. There were striking design wins that echoed the heritage brand’s codes. With a novel adaptation to the Louis Vuitton checkerboard print, Pharell re-established his formidableness in the fashion sphere through the ‘Damouflage’ print. This cryptopunk aesthetic appeared across apparel and accessories to create a unified wearable look. Capturing the essence of now (hello, NFTs), Williams collaborated with ET Artist who designed the pixelated Damier. He maintained his crown as the streetwear king as models were configured in quirky sunglasses and comfortable tracksuits, boxy and cropped jackets with a touch of military-inspired tailoring- creating an ensemble that evoked modernism. Breathing new life into the brand’s timeless classics, the iconic Speedy Bag underwent a captivating transformation, veering away from its traditional canvas counterpart. With a bold stroke of creativity, the leather-clad Speedy Bag took center stage, already unveiled in a captivating campaign featuring none other than Rihanna, mere days before its grand debut on the runway.
Pharell is well aware of his roots as a musician and embraces them even while being the creative lead of the French luxury brand. When lines get blurred, the possibilities are limitless. Never has a fashion show been so consuming with a symphony of orchestral and choir performances, solo acts, and composition by Pharell himself, and finally, culminating in a musical finale. To add the perfect finishing touch, Jay-Z graced the stage to perform after the show and the fashion and music world collided into a beautiful harmony at that point, leaving an indelible mark on the hearts of all who witnessed it.
Since Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton has always delved into upending its cultural force through its creative directors. It is not a matter of surprise for them to have appointed Williams, who since 2005 has been a connoisseur in artistic collaborations and is adept in harbouring creative partnerships that defy convention and infuse a breath of freshness. To answer the lingering question- No, not every non-designer can ascend to the creative helm of a luxury fashion house, but, a person of culture, influence, and foresight, stemming from any creative realm, can find their rightful place, donning the distinguished position as the creative head. The lines are getting blurred, but the strategic vision needs to be clear. A mix of ingredients (read: skill) in today’s era of modernism calls out for individualism, symbolism, and relevance to varied elements of the zeitgeist, that are a true reflection of a brand’s direction.